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I love those hood scoop holes on the Firebird. Subtle and simple but just a little something to make it look cooler. Good stuff.
Thanx. I had actually saw another customizer do the same thing to this casting, on another forum. I believe he used some kind of dremel attachment, though. Happened to find a small drill bit in my paint box (which also seems to house other random bits of junk, from whatever project I happened to be on at the time...lol), thought to myself "hmmm....that looks right about the same size as those hood scoop openings", and just took a chance I wouldn't screw it up. Glad I didn't, and that my first go around at a custom is getting such a good reaction on here. May just have to track down another one of these Firebird 400's, and set it up as a racer soon.
Well, I got it slammed back together before I went to work, earlier. My "welds" seem pretty solid. However, I'm sure you've all heard the expression "10 pounds of crap in a 5 pound bag." I do believe that's slightly what happened with my rear end, when it came to those bullet weights. Like i said, everything seems solid, so I just did a small bead of JB Weld where the body meets the base, to fill in the gap/give me a little extra hold. Probably hit it with a little bit of black paint, once everything sets. In the meantime, if you look close enough, you can see a little bit of the detail work I did on the Chevy "bowtie" and the tiny reverse lights.
Forgot to mention....
I didn't end up using Smitty's matchstick trick (this time. It's definitely something I'll put to use in the future, I'm sure.). I just did a little bit of masking with scotch tape. Pretty much the same thing I did to get that bead of JB Weld into that little bit of a gap.
Haha! I couldn't resist. Had to bust open the Firebird and add a little weight to it. Luckily the base was only connected to the body with a couple dabs of crazy glue. Only gonna use 1 bullet weight this time, as it seems to be more than enough weight and is closing up a whole lot easier on my test fittings.
Also, here you can see light shining through my hood scoop holes. Figured this was my only chance for them to show up in a pic...lol
I use j b quick to anchor axles and chop tops... but I attatch the grill / engines, seats, fuel cells and body with
* loc-tite - stik n seal [indoor]...[outdoor is just model glue]... non toxic, dries clear, has the consistency of toothpaste, [stays put] washes off with water while white [wet],... sets up slightly flexible, body doesn't break loose when "stopping", but it can be pried loose to reuse the body or base if needed... $2.59 wally...
Nice start...and welcome....looking forward to more projects
Are your models ,as cool as they are, also fast ?................
Loc-tite stik n seal = good stuff. That's actually what I used to stick everything together on the Firebird, originally. Pretty solid stuff, and didn't give me too terrible of a time getting it opened back up. As for the JB Quick, I'd much rather use that VS the current Weld I'm using. However, it seems every store I've went to lately is either sold out, or just doesn't stock it. I'll have to keep looking, as it's so much easier to work with.
I hope so. I still need to either find a local track, or get to building one of my own, to really test them on. As far as just rolling it across the table (propped up on the legs, for a little incline), though, the Camaro does seem to be moving a little faster with the added weight.
Bought a couple of Pagani Hyuara's the other night. The Mrs. also collects, and is in love with the casting, ATM. Decided to grab one to sit on her section of the shelf, and the other to mod. Gonna run 'em up against each other later, and try and get a rough idea of what my mods will do on the orange track. That is, if I can manage to add any additional weight to the Hyuara's rear end. Not really a lot of free space to shove anything with that one.
While my original go at the Camaro wasn't too bad, IMO, I still felt I could do a little better. I wound up picking up a couple more over the weekend, and had a 2nd go one of them. Found some Sharpies that would actually work for the chrome and gold bits (after noticing that my acrylic paint on the last one had started to flake after a few days.), and used a black fine tip one to hit some of the various lines with. Also, went with 1 less bullet weight in the rear end, and got it to close up a whole lot easier this time.