Page 3 of 4

Which graphite products and recipes do you use?

Jump to first page Jump to last page

View member profile
D_Built_Garage 10/25/23

Great info. Thanks for sharing guys! 

Solid Film Lubricants

So... not so quick an answer to a not so simple question! But it is a great topic , thanks for asking it!


My Molybdenum DiSulfide arrived yesterday and I had a chance to play with it... and yeah it is awesome stuff... far superior to graphite alone. Instead of 6-7 second wheel spins it is upwards of 10 with just that addition. So graphite Moly blends will be far superior to graphite alone. And as Dr. mentioned, his moly alone may or may not be best, but you should check it out as it is an improvement. My first ever car entry recently was .1 second off first place... and there were a host of cars between first and last... maybe this stuff will get me in range? I can definitly see and feel the difference.



  • Wow it even says it is approved for experimental uses. Sounds just like m college days. — AbbyNormal
View member profile
StrayDog 10/28/23

Has anyone tried teflon powder? I'm considering getting some and seeing how it compares

  • I have some sitting in a jar that I tried recently... the moly seems slicker... — Stoopid_Fish_Racing

I tried the ptfe powder as well... I had a hard time getting it to flow into the wheel hole.. it says it is ultra fine...

Did not seem to yield any improvement for me, but supposedly it is more slippery than either graphite or moly... IDK, I keep going back to silicone spray as maybe the best?

Teflon powder any good?

Here is a good link to a PWD discussion on teflon powder if interested


I use the pinewood derby graphite from Hobby Lobby. It sits loose in a ziploc bag while wheels are in there so the axles get coated from head to toe. Makes finding a matching pair pretty messy but they spin for a loooooong time.

Im a Newbie to this Hobby and still finding my way around in this group... Im waiting for my track to arrive so I can apply my prep process to both modfied and stock cars I have & send out to races.  

I Watched the video from High Volocity that was posted in one of the above comments - That process is great for a MOD race that allows you to remove wheels from axles to polish and burnish graphite into hubs. This is a long pratice PWD technique I used as well & a process that works to produce fast running cars with less friction inside / outside of hubs..

I made a trip to Hobby Lobby looking for items that I can use on the wheel sizes we run, I will try this on some odd ball wheels to practice on. Im interested to see if this technique will work out or not.

I will try different processes for stock application to see what it will take to keep that grahphite in that hub without guming up the axle/hub. Its all comes down to the time you put into the R&D of your process. Not to mention weight, car type.... LOL... So much to consider here right??

My choices of graphite over the years is DD4H graphite.. I ran in my pinewood derby days.


High Volicty Blend I have tried out on PWD cars now going to try in HW racing... 

Thanks for a Great Thread and look forward to sharing more soon.. 

  • Thanks for sharing that mate! I have watched your vids looking for clues to cross over to diecast car prep... looking forward to seeing what you come up with! — Stoopid_Fish_Racing

I have experimented with a lot of different graphite and this is what I have found to be an excellent combo.

XLR8 in the outside axle hole applied twice. It is very fine and falls into the tight spots very well. I believe it is straight graphite.

Max V in the crotch (between the inner hub and the chassis) applied twice. Max V is a graphite/moly blend. 

If after that treatment results in some free spin resonance still, hit the outer axle hole with one shot of Max V. It usually cures the buzz.

  • Noted. Thanks for the tip! — RC_Attucks
  • I use a similar approach. Max V can clean up a poor spinning wheel to a degree but to much and things slow down. — Milestone_Racing
  • I just looked these up and I can order them on ebay. Nothing in our stores here unfortunately. Thanks for the tip Brandon — EnZedRacing
View member profile
AbbyNormal 5/20/24

Well its good to see all of this information as I'm still wandering around in the woods. I started out with the pinewood pro graphite which I found chunky as well. I like the maximum velocity as its finer and has a better applicator tip. And I've been been trying WD-40 Dry Lube with teflon. And I've been trying a little graphite and IPA. Mixing and matching and testing ... no conclusions on the best rocket fuel mix yet. 

I'm able to do some testing on my little track and I do see time reductions of 0.1 to 0.3 seconds with lubrication applied but nothing consistent. I do feel that my current single lane track setup seems to favor light to mid-weight cars with the heavies struggling in the 90deg corners. 

One thing that is useful are these micro tip micro brushes I got at the hobby shop. Great for pushing graphite in or dabbing the WD-40 PTFE teflon into tight areas.


View member profile
AbbyNormal 5/20/24

Also these little dispenser bottles I got from the Amazon are very handy and not too $$. I can't tell you what's in them cuz its all secret like.


  • Ooooo secret recipes ! I like the idea of separate bottles too — EnZedRacing
View member profile
Vulfgang 5/21/24

Otis dry lube for gunsmithing. It's a moly graphite developed for the military. Buy it at your local sporting goods store. Carefully slowly spray some in a thimble. Slide the wheels to one side and dip, dry, 5 times at least. Let dry 10 minutes after the last dip. If I'm glueing the axles, I keep the lube away from the center of the axle. Much better than my graphite powder mixes. 

View member profile
Numbskull 5/25/24

  • Thats a lot of "product" right there! You must be onto something in that stash as your results show! — Stoopid_Fish_Racing
  • I'm still learning. — Numbskull

to join the conversation or sign-up now