Informal Poll: Best spray can clear coat? Screws or JB weld?...etc...

MessyMarv Tuesday, 9/7/2021

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Hey fellas,

Want to get your opinions on a few things:

1) Best Spray Can Clear Coat?

2) Primer?

3) Brand for colors in general?

4) Screws or JB weld?

5) Sand wheels everytime?

6) Polish axles everytime?

7) Glue your weights in or tape?  Putty?

Thanks! 


Discussion

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Rust oleum 2x ultra cover is my preference for spray paint. No clear coat. I use JB Weld instead of screws.

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MadMike 9/7/21

I use duplicolor automotive paints as much as possible 

Screws now(never go back)

And I've just started playing with axle polishing 

I use sticky wheel weights from cars as much as possible,but I also use glue to hold additional weight

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redlinederby 9/7/21
Site manager

1) Best Spray Can Clear Coat? Dunno...Always just used the Krylon craft clear coat

2) Primer? Just used generic primer at Home Depot, it's okay - don't use primer much anymore

3) Brand for colors in general? Mostly used the Rustoleum stuff and I've been happy

4) Screws or JB weld? I've always JB'ed but trying to get good at screws

5) Sand wheels everytime? Naturally, although I'm pretty lazy about it

6) Polish axles everytime? I don't but I probably should. I'm still an FTE-user

7) Glue your weights in or tape? I use hot glue or clay to test my weight placement, then use JB to set them permanent.

Spray Max 2k clear glamour for clear

Always sand wheels

Always Polish axels

 Never rely on FTEs or nickel plated axles you'll lose

E6000 to hold down weight. Mattman213 got me using it but always JB on the axels


If anyone can provide some detail on how to get screws into the posts would be great!  Help!


  • 2-56 button head self tapping screws with a .050 driver — BlueLineRacing
  • Check out the Modding section or just search for "screws" and you'll get some articles — redlinederby
  • I usually drill the head of the rivet off. When I separate the body from the chassis I file the post down flat. I then use a #50 drill bit to slowly drill a hole in the post (about 1/8 in depth). I don't use a tap before using a screw, since the metal is soft. ~ PS I like the Ghostface reference...Lol — GhostDriver

Paint: i use Dupicolor Metal Cast  w/ 2X Gloss Clear or Matte Clear. (Gloss takes car wax really well)

Always sand the wheels

Always polish axles

i use tape for the lighter weight races. JB weld for the heavier weight races. I always JB weld the axles.

Hope this helps, good luck!!!

Want to get your opinions on a few things:

1) I just use whatever clearcoat I have on hand. 

2) Generally never bother priming

3) I mostly spray via airbrush and found the pre-mixed ones sold in model shops to be good. They have a huge range of colours and they're super easy to use. also, using the airbrush means you hardly use any and there is little overspray or smell

4) I screw together if I can, so i can make adjustments - especially while testing. However, if I mess up the posts then I will glue it

5) Never sanded my wheels, but I only run open track so there are other things taht affect performance more.

6) I've polished some but mostly will just graphite them instead.

7) I like to use putty, as I can stuff it into the interior of the car, like in the seats. It contains it and doesn't require cuting up the interior at all. Other times I will glue lead sheets into the base and cut the interior out to accommodate it.

Want to get your opinions on a few things:

1) Best Spray Can Clear Coat? Gloss, Matte, dull or Satin finishes? Minwax for clear coating base coat.

2) Primer?  Only with base coat/clear coat. Tamiya fine primer (comes in grey, white and brown)

3) Brand for colors in general? Spectraflame, but requires a lot of prep work.

4) Screws or JB weld? Learn to drill and tap. You'll be glad you did, plus you can take apart and rework stuff inside.

5) Sand wheels everytime? yes

6) Polish axles everytime? yes, doesn't matter if ML/fte/plated.

7) Glue your weights in or tape?  Putty? Don't use tungsten putty. It runs above 90F. will ruin a build by the time it cooks off in back of postal truck. Weight is Tungsten only or 3m weight tape. Easily cut to fit small spaces and great for fine tuning up to weight limit. Y'all might be ok with Lead poisoning but I'm out for my builds. I secure W with Milliput, mortar it into the base and dries rock solid, can be sanded painted etc when dry.

Couple of tidbits on painting I've learned the hard way:

  • There are two main types of paint, enamel and acrylic.  You can tell them by looking at the content list on the can.  Petrolium or acetone = enamel.  I use both types, but I try not to put enamel on top of acrylic.
  • Read the labels.  Generally you can recoat in minutes or after a day.  
  • Patience.  I will usually put down several coats and then let the car sit for a week before doing decals, masking, or clear coats. 
  • Contigency.  I usually work on two of the same cars at the same time, from stripping all the way to painting.  If I break a bit when drilling, or completely botch a paint layer, it is not a complete set back.  This also allows you to experiment on one if you want to try somethign new.  If they both make it to the end, the best looking one goes to the race.
  • Everyone is still learning.  Have fun and share what you learn.

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SpyDude 9/8/21

Screwed is better than glued.... learned this lesson from doing other projects, not just cars. Glue will soften and eventually break loose - screws gotta be ripped out before they come loose.

 
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RLoRacing 9/9/21

1) Best Spray Can Clear Coat

2) Primer? Rustoleum 

3) Brand for colors in general? Rustoleum but I also use Extreme Laquer from Hobby for some of the bright R-Lo colors. 

4) Screws. Allows you to re-use a build if you want to and make changes when you test it

5) Sand wheels? No, not every time

6) Polish axles everytime? Yes and always JB Weld them down except for the one time I used a car with suspension for the Chaos Canyon Rally 2021. 

7) Glue your weights in or tape? I tend to use clay since it allows you to reuse the weights but it can sometimes cause the weights to come loose in high temperatures so now I really only use it if the body keeps the weight to the chassis. I've had many cars  hold their weight like this and do good but have had a few where it came loose.
As someone else mentioned, be careful with tungsten putty as it can run into the axles and slow your build down. 


  • I've had good luck with the Extreme Lacquer all-in-one from HL. I did the Purple People Eater in their Purple-licious and it bulldozed 59 other cars and was involved in some nasty hits at the crossroads, but the paint still looks good. — Redline_Salvage_Inc

I'll admit I'm a newbie to the sport, this thread is the first time I've heard about sanding the wheels.  Could someone provide some information about it.  Thank you.

RS


  • https://issuu.com/diecastracingreport/docs/drr-2020-06-15/4 The very first issue of Diecast Racing Report included League of Speed's video on sanding wheels, along with some other great tips on reducing friction. Hope this helps! — Xanthippe
  • Thank you — bubblehead_704

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