Dry Lubes
After reading some of these post, I went out and bought some "dry graphite"...but didn't have any success.
If you don't mind me asking...What kind of dry graphite did you try? The graphite lube that I've been using comes in a tube, like this:
Its a crystaline powder that must be worked into the axle gaps to be beneficial.
IMO...ditto on gspeedr's comment... but once in, i like to spin, wipe clean, spin, wipe clean until you can't see any black on a tissue... graffite is heavy, can settle and can leave a lump that has to be raced smooth....worse if any oil [mattel] is present...early exit for a fast car in single elimination races.
After reading some of these post, I went out and bought some "dry graphite"...but didn't have any success. So, I went out in the garage and got my old can of WD40 and lightly sprayed the wheels, and gave them a spin, and the results were very noticeable on several cars, and others offered no change. For me I'll go with WD40 for my axle lube!Preacher
I would still avoid that stuff for two reasons.
1. You now are going to get that liquid stuff on the track. I dont know of a single track that allows wet lubes because of this.
2. It attracts sooooo much dust, it will quickly slow your car down significantly and will continue to do so even more.
I would still avoid that stuff for two reasons.
1. You now are going to get that liquid stuff on the track. I dont know of a single track that allows wet lubes because of this.
2. It attracts sooooo much dust, it will quickly slow your car down significantly and will continue to do so even more.
First of all, I wipe all the excess off the car tires, and then give it blast of can air to clean all the parts off, so that it isn't a dust collector. And there isn't any oily stuff on the track, and especially no dark lines that the graphite leaves. For me this stuff works, easy to apply, and it penetrates quickly without a lot of fiddling with the wheels and axles. I haven't had any of my cars melt, or disintegrate because of using it...but whatever works for you.
Preacher
if everyone cleaned the excess oil off as you do...there would be no reason to ban lubes...i sometimes graffite if i replace the axles... then i can clean off any graffite that stays on the axle after pre-spinning...if you graffite and j.b,weld, clean the axle center with rubbing alcohol and drag a file backwards across the axle for "bite" before you j.b. ...
... time a prespin with full graffite... then time a spin after cleaning off all the graffite you can... hmmmm !
The boys and I did a Science Fair project in 2010, didnt try WD40 but did try dry graphite. All the cars with the dry graphite that we tried had an increase in distance. No matter which car we tried. If I remember correctly, it increased the distance by about 5 percent. It takes a few runs down the track before it really gets worked in.
The only thing I hated with it was it looked like the car and I came back from a strip club with the glitter look all over my hands.
I thought it was the film from the WD40 after it dries is what collects the dust. I tried it once on my 1/32 slot cars. Bad idea as I was fighting the dirt and grime forever. It had to have dried up at some point, but I kept finiding it.
After reading some of these post, I went out and bought some "dry graphite"...but didn't have any success. So, I went out in the garage and got my old can of WD40 and lightly sprayed the wheels, and gave them a spin, and the results were very noticeable on several cars, and others offered no change. For me I'll go with WD40 for my axle lube!
Preacher