Got Screws?

EconoCarl Saturday, 11/26/2011

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Anybody using screws to remount the body to the chassis? If so, what are you using? I've been JB Welding them back together and I'd like to have the option of taking the car back apart a little easier!


Discussion

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georgeb 11/26/11

I've used screws. I got some tiny self-tapping ones at a hobby store and a drill bit to match. Might be the way to go if tinkering with different weight.

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model40fan 11/26/11

RED ONE RACING uses j.b. weld to attatch the axles...[ once they don't spin on the base you can align them and have them stay] R.O.R. uses LOCK-TITE --STIK'N SEAL for body to base...
consistancy of toothpaste [STAYS PUT] , non-toxic , white, dries clear, strong but flexable, you can carefully pry the bodies off the metal bases [ plastic ? ], peal off the glue and start over...
. or...oil the inside of the car, make card stock shims for the wheels, put the GLUE where you want it on the base, carefully put some glue on the oiled body corasponding to the glue on the base, drop the body on, shim wheels, wait 24hrs., slide the body off, wash the inside of body, wash only the places on the base that touched the oil........ if done right you can race it without glueing it together... [ if allowed, add weight before you drop the body on ]...

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redlinederby 11/27/11
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I've used magnets...little necklace magnets they sell at the hobby store. Trim off some of the brass around the actual magnet and then you can try to work on side into the body and another onto the chassis. Quicker to pull apart than a screw but probably not ideal for a final mod, great for testing.

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EconoCarl 12/1/11

I went to Fastenal and ordered a bag of #3-48x3/16 screws and 4 taps. I figured if I bought 4 taps that I'd never break one!

I use 2-56 button head screws. They look just like the original rivets

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EconoCarl 12/7/11

Picked up the screws and taps Monday and just got around to trying them out.
Diecast Cars, Hot Wheels, Matchbox
After drilling the rivet out with a #44 drill bit, I used the 3-48 bottoming tap to thread the holes.
Diecast Cars, Hot Wheels, Matchbox
Here's one with the 3-48 x 3/16 screws installed.

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model40fan 12/7/11

well screwed...

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Jobe 12/7/11

Where did you get the little screws and tap? I'm interested in trying this out...

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EconoCarl 12/7/11

Where did you get the little screws and tap? I'm interested in trying this out...

I ordered them from my local Fastenal. I got fifty screws and four taps (I told the guy that if I ordered four that I'd never break one!) for $24, which included a small freight charge.

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redlinederby 12/9/11
Site manager

Excuse my ignorance...but what is a "tap"? Is that a thing or a tool?

So you create female threads in the existing rivet stud, or do you create something new?

Is that What is the orange "goo" in your photo?

BTW, great photos...

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Jobe 12/9/11

a tap makes threads in a pre drilled hole.

the orange goo is silly putty!

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model40fan 12/9/11

Excuse my ignorance...but what is a "tap"? Is that a thing or a tool?

So you create female threads in the existing rivet stud, or do you create something new?

Is that What is the orange "goo" in your photo?

BTW, great photos...

there are different types of taps;
a cut tap uses a smaller hole as it removes all the material to form the threads...
a roll ,or form tap, uses a larger hole, relocating the material to form the threads,
a bottoming tap has been blunted, for tapping blind holes [ not all the way through...]
taps are also separated by GP, or pitch, percentage of male thread to female.
all should be turned 1/4 turn in and then backed off the same, to break and remove the cut thread. too deep and you will snap the tap, [a snapped tap is a job for a pro... so don't do it...]
if you make a mistake, a roll tap may bail you out as it will realign the threads if possible.
i like to drill the hole for a roll tap, but start the first thread with a cut tap, then tap the hole with a roll tap. the pointed
cut tap is easier to start...


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