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Got Screws?
EconoCarl 12/9/11
if you make a mistake, a roll tap may bail you out as it will realign the threads if possible.
i like to drill the hole for a roll tap, but start the first thread with a cut tap, then tap the hole with a roll tap. the pointed
cut tap is easier to start...
The bottoming tap that I used worked great. I did learn that drilling and tapping is now the first thing that I will do before modding/painting a body. I drilled all the way through to the outside one one car (that wasn't slated for the HDS). The great thing about all of this is that if you screw up just buy another car for $1.07!
model40fan 12/9/11
carl, give plumber's putty a shot, sets up hard... sandable, [ tappable ]... sorry, not heavy... i was looking for the old liquid solder in a tube... settled for the p.'s putty....i use it to make the floorboards flat, for strips of "lead" carpeting ! [ it will not keep your axles from spinning or sliding side to side like j.b. weld does...]
when you drill the holes, put 2 or 3 layers of tape around the drill bit so it can only go in so far, like a go-no go depth gauge
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What Jobe said!
Regarding the 'Silly Putty', when I opened the 'egg' that it comes in I noticed that the putty was formed to the egg. I didn't think about it at the time, but when we tested the modded cars last weekend one of the cars had the Silly Putty locking up a wheel. I didn't think it was a problem, figured I must have been a little hap-hazzard when putting the putty in. When Brian ask what the "goo" in the photo was it all came together. The putty worked fine when in the house but after putting the cars in my van and heading to Austin the inside of the van must have gotten a little warmer inside letting the putty ooze out of the axle slots. Long story short, thanks for asking about the goo Brian for now I realize how the putty locked up a wheel! Now I've got to get it all of my cars.