New to painting, where to start?

BRUM_and_HOWL_RACING Monday, 10/21/2024

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Sorry if this has been covered before but I am new here and new to diecast racing (literally joined this past week and am in the process of my very first build). My question is, what is the concensus on removing prior paint before paint your scheme? Do you leave it and paint over it or do you strip it off and prime/paint. Any advice is appreciated...thanks

Robert 

brum&howl racing


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jlane 10/21/24

From what I've seen on here and youtube most builders strip the paint from the casting before applying fresh primer and paint. Those that leave the paint on will often scrape it with sandpaper or a wire brush to give the primer something to adhere to.


In the beginning, I used to strip all the paint off, if you are after a show car finish, it is the way to go, but paint chips off easily. For many of my castings I do not now strip the paint. Most hotwheels paint is a sound base, light rub with finie sandpaper, and paint over. In my experience sticks well, and is less prone to chipping, and, I am more interested in finding speed than a concourse car. Though both would be nice.

But thats just me.

Cheers good luck out there.


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AbbyNormal 10/21/24

I just clean the casting really well in soapy water - rinse -  dry. Then use a good quality primer. If I bungle the paint job then I strip the paint off

I sandblast the old paint off and wash the body with rubbing alcohol  before repainting. ("If" I paint - usually just leave it with it's stock paint job).


I like the strip, prime, base color coat, decal, clearcoat method. Occasionally I will use the original paint after removing the tampos, if I like the color, then decal and clearcoat.

Experiment with it and you will find a process that works for you! Half the fun, for me, is playing around with it!

Enjoy the ride!


  • Same — JBlotner42
  • Much appreciated! — BRUM_and_HOWL_RACING
  • thats my flavor, too. if it has great color, and the modding process hasn't destroyed the original paint, I leave it and sticker decal after removing (or covering) the tampos — dr_dodge
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redlinederby 10/21/24
Site manager

Welcome to the site! There's an entire collection in the forum just for paint & decals, so I encourage you to check it out as there are lots of topics about everything...stripping, types of paint, airbrushing, etc.

Myself, I would put the car bodies in a jar of stripper for maybe an hour and the original paint would just slide off without much fuss. Clean it up, prime it, and then paint it with spray paint. I admit, it wasn't fancy or very professional, but it made cars the colors I wanted. Every now and then I'd use some model enamel paint with a brush but mostly just sprayed.


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LobotomyScam 10/21/24


  • This is what I use! — ManiacMotorsports
  • Thanks! — BRUM_and_HOWL_RACING
  • Works great I use a small metal container for the removal process. — AbbyNormal
  • don't use it on plastic! Trashed a Carrerra slot car spoiler with it. — dr_dodge
  • I use a similar stripper, all natural. Usually keep it in 24 hours, clean and back in for any stubborn spots — G_ForceRacing
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AbbyNormal 10/21/24

One other thing is to try different paints and one of the best I've used are Tamiya which you can find at your local Hobby shop or on line. Some rattle can brands put out a heavy coat which can obscure some details. Tamiya has great coverage but puts on a thin coat. 

I would also say that a white primer is a good base for most colors, but if you are going for black or other dark colors use a Hotrod gray primer.


I use the Rust Oleum 2x rattle cans, but they can put on a heavy coat.


  • I've had issues with the Rustoleum 2x wrinkling/blistering when I apply clear coat....especially orange & yellow....? — Dutch_Clutch_Racing
  • Thank you! — BRUM_and_HOWL_RACING
  • Hey Dutch the issue with Rustoleum 2X clear is that you must apply the initial clear coat within 4hrs of the last color coat OR wait at least 48hrs. Otherwise, there is a good chance you will get a cracked or crocodile type reaction. — AbbyNormal
  • Thanks for that info.! — Dutch_Clutch_Racing
  • rustoleum owns testors, the only 2 I use togther and no dumb chem reactions — dr_dodge
  • I have pretty much given up on the 2X stuff with the exception of the clear... way too many do overs due to paint reactions. It does better when you have a few weeks to let it sit and de-gas and harden but even then it is a crap shoot... that and the thickness issue just makes me pass on it. — Stoopid_Fish_Racing
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G_ForceRacing 10/24/24

Sometimes  I strip it off, but I sometimes like to keep the headlights or other details, so I'll use masking fluid and paint over the existing paint. Here's an example. I then add a few coats of clear coat to help keep it intact and give it that "just waxed" gloss! :)


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Zizzer_Prime 10/24/24

I use this to remove paint. It takes at least 20 minutes to remove paint. I  hope this helps. 


  • That’s what I use now. I’ve watched hundreds of diecast restoration and customization videos on YouTube. Danny’s Diecast Disasters and many like him are great for showing what to do and even give you ideas that you wouldn’t have thought of. — Billys_Midway_Racing
  • Thank you both! — BRUM_and_HOWL_RACING

It depends, light colors the tampos will show through if you dont strip first, dark color esp ones with flake or mica powder you can get away with not striping, I just light sand or buff with a scotch bright pad prior to paint. 


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