Setup continues at Midwest Raceway
I'm using Spool Heads SR2 two lane curve track, 4 sections total (the grey section). Today I used 2" by 4" by 3/4" MDF to connect two sections of track together. I attempted to minimize the size of the seam and ensure the center and side rails were flush (without any hassle). Russ does a good job with the 3D printing and providing plenty of hardware
With deleting three sections of the two lane track, I am able to create curves that flows and run smoothly. I will have to utilize a camera in the open area to capture any action as the cars curve back towards the inside. The sidewall blocks all vision of any cars rolling by.
This phase of setup concludes the two lane track and transitions to CR open track and curves.
Discussion
I like how you loop back all the way to directly underneath the opening straight. Squeeze all you can from your available area for building, so long as the track runs well!
Edit, you mentioned scenery in a reply elsewhere. Start simply, and put the best details on the parts of the diorama that will get the most time on camera in lingering shots like driver intro and victory lane. Trust, it adds up so quickly with buildings, people and trees. Oh goodness, the trees! Skimp details on areas that will only whizz by as you design your show.
- That's some pretty solid advice! — Dutch_Clutch_Racing
- I watched ten episodes of a show before realising a nicely appointed garage was a frickin' shoebox. Pretty daggum crafty! Also, same host, his background buildings are simple boxes with windows cut out and a light source inside, BUT those work because he never fixes the camera just on those and has other areas detailed for his B-roll. — Chris_Hood
- Thanks for the advice! — Midwest_Diecast_Raceway
This is terrific, inspiring and will be a great guide. Thanks for posting, I will be following this just to learn. I have been asking how long it takes, designing, testing and building a track. I'm hearing it can be difficult, so if you could list your curse words too....
- Thanks for following. This is what I finished in a weekend, between chores and kids I'm running cars as we build to keep my boy involved and to make notes of possible changes. An observation so far is the curve may need to be extended with straight track to help maintain speed and keep the cars running smoothly. — Midwest_Diecast_Raceway
Let's go, Sean! Maybe I can find an excuse to come over and help. ;)
- Ouuh...That's an opportunity you can't let go by Sean! — Dutch_Clutch_Racing
- You might be getting this racer mixed up with another, because in his profile it says Eric is racing in Michigan. I know there's a Midwest Diecast Racing, but I can't seem to find them anywhere. — ManiacMotorsports
- Ok....oops....I just went off Gravity Throttles reply. — Dutch_Clutch_Racing
- LOL... I thought Michigan would be a drive for someone to visit from Kansas. I hope I didn't use the same name of another diecast race track. That would be something — Midwest_Diecast_Raceway
Aha! Sorry for the confusion, Eric. And yes, that would be quite a drive for me. One of the local Wichita diecast racers entered my electric car tournament last year. Here's a picture. You can see that Sean calls his team name MDR. BUT... he doesn't host races like you're going to do, so no worries. Keep your host name and keep up the good work! -Mark @GTR
- For reference, his RLD handle is Sean_MDR — GravityThrottleRacing
- Whew! Thanks. When it comes time to test the track, I’d like to reach out and ask a few questions. — Midwest_Diecast_Raceway
Did you buy the track or 3d print it yourself. I use the same SR2
- I believe it's Spoolheads? — ManiacMotorsports
- I ordered it from Spool Heads. I'm using 4- SR2 banked drop 90 degree turns. — Midwest_Diecast_Raceway
- ManiacMotorsports.... IDK, I went off how it's spelled on the FB page and Messenger. You may be correct though. — Midwest_Diecast_Raceway
It's gonna be awesome!