Fixing seamless waffling with long metal strips
I'm currently building the frame out for a seamless 1/4 mile drag strip. After going over numerous build threads and discussions, I hadn't seen anyone try this, it's basically a 100ft. connector. Made of galzanized metal strap 1"x100' fits like a glove. The idea is to drill holes every 6" to 1' then use a narrow countersunk screw and add two apropriately sized washers underneath between metal and racetrack base to create a roadway "carrier" . BTW Fair Warning: this is raw sheet metal, the edges are sharp and if not careful your soft fleshy bits will pay a dear price in blood. Wear gloves and eye protection, please.
If no one has tried I will gladly report back on progress I make with it.
- Track building
- More in Tracks
Very interesting indeed! Thanks for sharing!
I looked for a metal strip like that for my seamless but I only looked at local stores like Home Depot. They had metal that was the right thickness but never the width I needed. I found some shorter aluminum strips that were the thickness but less than an inch wide...but I used them and it worked pretty well, and I'm still using them.
For me it ended up being just as much about waffling and as it was adding some weight to keep the track flat.
It looks like the 100' strip came rolled up...how are you handling straightening the metal strip? Seems like it would be as awkward to straighten that as it does getting the orange track unrolled.
I never looked at more industrial/commercial sources because that just felt like too much effort and expense at the time.
But I'm very interested in how you apply it and use the strip with your track. I know the seamless orange track is a rare breed, but for those of us that have it, we'll take all the tricks we can get. And if you have a link to where you bought your strip, that'd be awesome.
- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CD6WON0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $20 and some change. It's basic Plumbers strap without the holes. Used for hanging AC ducts overhead. — Redline_Salvage_Inc
Interesting, and quite honestly, a good idea. If I can be so rude, about how much did that set you back?
- How rude SpyDude! ;) (I kinda want to know too) — G4DiecastRacing
- amazon, 20 bones :) — Redline_Salvage_Inc
Forgive my horrid Paint skills, the purple is the platform/surface I am currently building for track, the red is the metal strapping, 2 blue bits are washers and the green is either a #12 or #10 countersunk wood screw. The dimensions for the track channel are 1.035" x 0.064" perfect clearance for a 1"x 1/16" (0.0625") connector, strap etc. The strapping is unruly so will stay inside box until instalation. It is also extremely maliable and will bend if the wind blows. I am unsure what spacing the screws will require atm, but will find out fairly quickly after starting, perhaps 2 balsa wood shims underneath while attatching will help.
- Interesting Idea! Looking forward to try this one day — setandiecast
UPDATE: The washer/countersunk screw idea is a wash. I found 1/4" poly block trim in the siding dept @Lowes About $3 per 8' section and it's rather bendy. Secured it with 18 gauge narrow crown finish staples, they will also secure the metal straping to the block trim. I dialed the staple gun up a notch to ensure they "countersink" and don't leave bumps in the track when secured. Also used a laser level to keep everything parallel. Strapping will be laid this week, I'm pretty sure I'll have to do it in 3'-4' sections because of the "unwieldyness" of the coiled metal. Stay tuned...
So this project got the axe, but it wasn't the metal strips, the poly block trim is only so flexible and would break when bent to much. So out with the old and in with the new. 29' Derby Magic with 2 finish line timers, one at 20.6' and one at 28'9"
That is a great idea!